How To Install Motorcycle Piston

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Gman58
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Trying to put my '81 KZ 550 A2 dorsum together...specifically the top end. Saw a ridiculously uncomplicated video on U tube of how to get the pistons back in the cylinder without a ring compressor. That didn't work and zero I could find in the fashion of a tool worked when they are notwithstanding on the connecting rod and in the wheel. Then, has anyone got a trick they care to share? I don't see any earthly way to go the rings or any compressors past the bevel of the cylinder wall. A friedn told me that should help shrink the rings. But on close inspection of the bevel, I found ridges that are grabbing the rings and preventing any movement. I take ordered some other set of rings but considering by attempts has me worried that the leading edge of the pinnacle rings accept been damaged from the many attempts

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JKams
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Hullo Gman - I feel your pain; I've encounter this problem before, and it can be a majestic PITA. Have you tried using worm gear clamps (aka radiator hose clamps) as ring compressors? I've had adept luck with that. You can too cut 3/4" strips of soda can to wrap effectually the rings before you employ the clamps; this is especially helpful if the ring grooves are wider set than the width of the clamp. Be conscientious and don't cut yourself - on either strips of soda cans, or the rings themselves.

Also, attempt cutting a piece of plywood that fits betwixt the lesser of the cylinder block and the elevation of the top crankcase. Information technology will need to have iv U shaped cutouts in it that will allow information technology to slide around the connecting rods. It sits there temporarily and holds the pistons level and in place then that you can go the cylinder block over all the ringed pistons. Equally you lot've surely noticed, information technology's difficult to handle all iv rods/pistons at once, especially with everything covered in a prissy slick of oil. Once you take the pistons inserted, you withdraw the piece of wood. The exact dimensions of this wood block will vary depending on your engine, but should be described in your repair manual.

I hope this helps - practiced luck.

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aquaholic Offline User 1981 KZ1000 J1 Posts: 161 Thank you received: 35	I have a set of ring compressors you may borrow if you would like. There are two sets of them I bought from PIT POSSE for doing my KZ. I will ship them to y'all for whatever it costs me from 28468 zip. They work bang-up. PM me if you want them. jon The following user(s) said Thank You: GPz550D1
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SWest
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I should have taken a clip of my putting mine in. I practice two/3 first then 1/four. I use short pieces of 1X4 to agree upwardly the pistons. Hose clamps the correct size will compress the rings. Once you're set on the beginning ones, yous loosen the clamps only enough for them to slide into the cylinders. A light glaze of oil helps. If they won't go in, don't force them. Offset over until you get the feel on things. When you get the first set in, the 2d volition be easier.
Steve

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Final edit: past SWest.

aquaholic
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If you decide to employ the hose clamp method ..... Make a few (perchance four or 5) exterior dents (larger than the cylinder base of operations) in the top border of the hose clamp (where it meets the bottom of the cylinder) then that the hose clamp does not want to slide into the cylinder. That's how a piston band compressor actually functions. I would recommend, that when y'all tighten the hose clamps on the rings, Make Certain THE Band END GAPS ARE IN THE Correct POSITION PER THE FSM and as you tighten the hose clamps ..... tap the clamps VERY GENTLY and continue tightening until you're sure they rings are fully compressed. I personally would oil the rings before doing this and brand darn certain there rings grooves are shine, clean and your ring clearance AND end gap are correct. Please elt u.s.a. know how you make out. Be well, jon

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KZB2 650
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Can you carefully have a file to the ridges on the bevel.... Jay from APE told me to just use wood sticks and my fingers to compress the rings (like stated make certain they are gaped, oiled and positioned right commencement) and they slipped correct in doing 2/3 first. I'd oil the cyl and piston skirts well too a few on here do em dry and I shutter every time I read that. The popular tin and clamp trick sound good too but was pretty easy Jay'southward mode..... aquaholic'due south offer is nice of him too... what ever way you experience the most comfortable with.

1978 KZ650 b-ii
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp bamboozle and Ape pods, Dyna Southward and light-green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.v pilots, 0-6s and 117.v primary
sixteen/42 gearing X band chain and alum rear JT sprocket.

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rrsmsw9999 Offline User Posts: 778 Thank yous received: 66	On the 550 and 1000, I never had whatsoever issue using fingers, associates lube and patience. Put a safe prop under the head so you can piece of work withot the head weight bearing down to boom you fingers. YMMV. R 1980 KZ 1000E2 Crashed half-dozen/2016 1980 KZ550A Sold 3/2016 The post-obit user(due south) said Cheers: GPz550D1
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missionkz Offline Sustaining Member Posts: 1622 Thank you received: 184	On the 550 and 1000, I never had any outcome using fingers, assembly lube and patience. Put a safe prop nether the head so you tin can piece of work withot the caput weight bearing downwardly to boom you fingers. YMMV. R Head? Smashing fingers? What are you lot referring to? Bruce 1977 KZ1000A1 2022 Triumph T120 Bonneville Far North Eastward Metro Denver Colorado
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Scirocco
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I never need or use a ring compressor tool for piston installation.
I compress the piston rings with my blank fingers into the sleeves starting time with a lot of lubricate.
Put all 4 pistons half way into the cylinder block first with the inner circlip installed.
Push piston #ane and #4 deeper into the sleeve to get full access to #2 and #3.
And then push piston pin into #2 and #three and install outer circlip and turn the creepo xc degrees ( #2 and #3 piston goes deeper into the sleeve).
Then position cylinder block to push piston pin into #1 and #4 and install outer circlip.
Quick and Easy and never get headaches with this method.
Don´t forget to roofing the crank example with paper towels if y'all desire to loose some circlip into the deep of the creepo case.

Michael

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Terminal edit: by Scirocco.

VTEC Offline User Posts: 555 Thank you received: lxxx	I did a similar method to Scirocco, but installed the pistons through the top of the sleeves with a tapered compressor. With 2/3 up lowered the cake and slipped in the pins and caps (no snap rings on MTC). Then rotate and repeat on 1/four. Works best with a buddy positioning the block while you install the pins. Attachments: The following user(s) said Thank You: GPz550D1
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rrsmsw9999 Offline User Posts: 778 Thank you received: 66	I use a pocket-sized wood block for a spacer because once the last set of rings is inserted in the sleeve, the caput will drop downwardly. Watch your fingers. R 1980 KZ 1000E2 Crashed half dozen/2016 1980 KZ550A Sold 3/2016
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Vincent J
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A few nights ago while laying in bed I was thinking the same thing...why not install pistons in the barrels 1st then connect the rods and wrist pins... thanks for reinforcing my thoughts... thank you Scirocco